Local Food Economy
Can eating fish be sustainable?
By Nicola Deschamps
As consumer awareness of sustainable food increases, the demand for locally sourced fish is on the rise. But how easy is it to eat sustainably when it comes to fish and seafood? Nicola Deschamps finds out more.
Eating fish sustainably depends on small-scale fishing boats working seasonally in British waters, landing fresh catches in local harbours and selling the fish locally. Conscious Food Company supplies sustainable fish, shellfish and smoked fish to over 90 food businesses in Bristol and Bath and a growing number of home-delivery customers. Founder and former chef Jonny Burnett started with a home-delivery service, expanded to wholesale and then opened a fishmonger in Nailsea.
Starting in 2020 with one van, the Conscious Food Company now has five vans delivering fresh fish to customers across the Bristol and Bath area. Its success reflects the shift in consumer values and the growing demand for sustainable fish.
It buys fresh fish landed at the coastal town of Brixham in Devon, smoked fish from Severn & Wye Smokery in Gloucestershire, shellfish from River Teign Shellfish in Devon and clams from Dorset Shellfish Company.
Sourcing locally cuts down food miles, reducing the carbon footprint. Eating fish seasonally allows them to breed, which helps protect fish populations and their ocean habitat. Besides enjoying fresh fish caught in British waters, there is also an economic benefit, with many dishes made from native fish costing as little as £1.50 per portion.
Local fishmongers such as Conscious Fish Shop, who stock locally caught fish, are great sources of information and can provide cooking tips and tasty recipes. Cod, haddock, hake and shellfish are best caught during winter, while line-caught tuna is available from April to September when tuna passes through British waters.
The Conscious Food Company’s future ambitions include establishing a sustainable fish box scheme like the well-established fruit and vegetable box schemes operating locally, as well as opening more fish shops in local communities to encourage residents to try native fish and support the British fishing industry.
“Don’t import, buy local.”
Jonny Burnett
Businesses that support the supply of sustainable fish are key to successfully making a long-term difference in changing consumer attitudes and supporting the environment and local economy. One such business is Loki Poké, an award-winning Bristol-based eatery founded by Georgia Hussey.
Started as a lockdown project and inspired by her time working in Sydney, Australia, Hussey wanted to bring the poké bowl, a popular Hawaiian dish, to Bristol. Originally made of raw cubed fish, the traditional poké bowl evolved under the influence of other cultures and now includes ingredients such as rice, pickles, vegetables and sauces. Vegan options are also available using plant-based protein, such as tofu.
Seeing a gap in the local market for fresh healthy snacks, Hussey began producing poké bowls from her home kitchen, testing them on family and friends and delivering orders to her neighbourhood before opening an eatery from one of the Wapping Wharf shipping containers. Key to the business was using locally sourced ingredients, including sustainable fish.
Loki Poké buys its fish from Conscious Food Company. This collaboration resulted in locally sourced, sustainable Hampshire chalk stream trout being added to the menu. This fish is now used in the eatery’s signature sashimi dish instead of tuna (typically sourced from the Indian or Western Pacific oceans). This swap has proved to be a hit with customers who love the flavour and texture of the trout.
“The hot trout bowl is delish … and with the sriracha satay sauce, so tasty.”
Katie S (Loke Poké customer)
Last year, this popular Harbourside restaurant won the Sustainable Street Food Award 2024 and the UberEats Climate Impact Trailblazer Award 2024.
In January 2025, a new branch of Loki Poké opened at Bristol’s St Nicholas Market. Moving forward, the business plans to focus on bringing its delicious, healthy ‘fast food’ to the offices of Bristol businesses and festivals nationwide, with plans to trade at top music festivals including Glastonbury, Latitude and Forwards.
For more information on Conscious Food Company, contact hello@consciousfoodco.co.uk and Loke Poké at georgia@lokipokeuk.com. To learn more about fish from British waters, look at British Sea Fishing.
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Nicola Deschamps is a registered nutritionist, author, and editor: targeteditorial.co.uk.
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